Step 1: WARM WATER
The importance of warm water
Splash warm water, on a clean face, to help open the pores and soften the beard. Master shavers will usually leave a hot flannel on the face for a few minutes to soften skin and beard. Never shave with cold water. It will leave your skin tight and hairs stiff, which will result in a very uncomfortable shave. To obtain the best results, it is recommended to shave after a hot shower, when the face has been cleansed and exfoliated. Never shave before a shower.
Step 2: APPLY PRE-SHAVE OIL
Why use a pre-shave oil?
Pre-shave oil is a key step to avoid razor burns. Good pre-shave oils will soften the beard and allow the razor to glide across the skin without leaving an oily residue on the skin. Pre-shave oils are highly recommended for men with sensitive skin, and whom suffer from shaving discomforts such as razor burns and ingrown hairs.
How?
Apply the pre-shave oil to skin that has been patted dry. Pour a small amount into the palm of the hand and massage the pre-shave oil into the beard going against the grain. This will lift the hair from the skin, and open the pores enabling a closer more comfortable shave.
Step 3: GENERATE A RICH LATHER
The shaving cream
It is important to use a good quality glycerine-based shave cream which lubricates and protects the skin.
The shaving brush
Best results are achieved by using a good badger-hair shaving brush, which will help:
How to obtain a rich, warm lather?
Wet the brush with warm water then place some cream on top of the brush, lather up the cream by moving the brush across the face in circular motion covering the beard in a rich warm lather.
Tip
A shaving brush stand is vital if you wish to look after your shaving brush so it lasts longer and works better. Drying the shaving brush in a hanging position means the water and any residual shaving products fall from the brush.
Step 4: SHAVING
The razor
Having the right tool is an important part to this step. There are many different kinds of razors available on the market.
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Cartridge razors are the most popular choice, such as the Gillette Fusion or Wilkinson’s Sword Quarto. A good cartridge razor will provide a safe and close shave.
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Double-edge safety razors will provide a closer shave then a cartage razor, but must be handled carefully.
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Cut-throat razors are for the expert shavers, as it must be handled with extra care (hence the name).
Whichever razor you choose, it is important that the razor is sharp and clean of any debris. For a cartridge razor, the cartridge should be changed at least after 3 to 5 shaves.
The shave
Rule 1: When shaving, it is important to remember to shave in the direction of the hair growth. Never begin a shave by shaving against the grain as this will cause ingrown hairs and will irritate the skin.
Rule 2: Leave the areas around the mouth and chin to the end, as the hairs are stiffest and need to soak longer in the shaving cream to soften.
Rule 3: Start by shaving the cheeks moving the razor towards the mouth.
Rule 4: Once finished with the cheeks, move onto the neck and shave downwards.
Rule 5: Finally go back and shave the mouth and chin area.
If necessary or want a closer shave, lather up again and shave across the grain (sideway) or against the grain (upwards). But remember, the least amount of strokes taken when shaving will lessen the chance of irritating the skin.
Step 5: RESTORE & PROTECT
After shaving, rinse the face with cold water. The cold water will help to close off the pores and cool the skin. Pat the face dry with a towel. However, avoid rubbing the face with the towel, as it
might irritate the skin.
Why use an after-shave balm?
Shaving removes the top layer of your skin, which is why it is important to use an after-shave balm. However, a non-alcohol based after-shave balm is best. Good after-shave balms will sooth, hydrate and protect the skin, leaving it smooth and healthy looking.
How?
When applying the after-shave balm to the face, pat into the face and neck gently. Do not rub in as this action can cause irritation to freshly shaved skin.
